Why pallets make brilliant raised beds

If you have a patch of tired lawn, a windy corner, or a patio that could do with softening, a raised bed built from reclaimed pallets is one of the most rewarding weekend projects you can take on. The timber is sturdy, often free, and has a rustic charm that suits both cottage gardens and modern outdoor spaces. A standard pallet measures roughly 1.2 metres by 1 metre, which is a sensible size for a bed you can reach across without treading on the soil.

Raised beds warm up faster in spring, drain freely, and save your back from endless bending. They are perfect for salads, herbs, and other shallow-rooted crops. Best of all, you can build one in an afternoon with basic tools, then spend the rest of the season harvesting. The key is to choose the right pallets, prepare the wood properly, and line the bed so the timber lasts.

Choosing and preparing safe pallet wood

Not all pallets are equal. Look for a stamp marked HT, which means heat treated, or DB, which means debarked. Avoid any pallet stamped MB, as this indicates methyl bromide treatment. Also steer clear of pallets stained with oil, paint, or unknown spills, and trust your nose: if it smells chemical, leave it. Dry, sound boards are what you want.

For a bed about 1.2 metres long, 1 metre wide, and 30 centimetres high, you will need three or four pallets. Gather these tools before you start:

• Hammer, crowbar, and a pallet buster if you have one
• Strong gloves and safety glasses
• Hacksaw or reciprocating saw for stubborn nails
• Sandpaper or a sanding block
• Galvanised screws, about 60 millimetres long
• Woven weed membrane and a staple gun

Dismantle the pallets carefully. Work with the grain and prise boards away slowly to avoid splitting. Remove every nail and staple, then sand rough edges and splinters. Sort the boards by size so the longest ones can form the sides. If a board cracks, set it aside for the base or compost bin.

Building the frame

Decide on a level spot. If the bed sits on soil, fork over the ground beneath and remove perennial weeds. If it sits on paving, you will need to lift it slightly so air can circulate. Cut four corner posts from the thick pallet blocks, each about 45 centimetres long. Sink 10 centimetres into the ground, or stand them on slabs for a patio bed.

Aim for a finished height of around 30 centimetres, which is three boards deep. Attach the side boards to the corner posts with two galvanised screws per board. Leave a 2–3 millimetre gap between boards for airflow, but do not worry too much: the membrane will keep the compost in. Check the frame is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner; the two measurements should match. For a longer bed, add a central brace to stop the sides bowing. Give the whole frame a gentle wobble. If it moves, add another screw or a cross-piece.

Lining, drainage and filling

Line the inside of the bed with woven weed membrane, stapling it to the top edge and folding it neatly into the corners. This keeps soil from escaping between the boards and slows down rot. Do not use solid plastic, which traps water and turns the bed into a swamp. If the bed is on soil, lay a sheet of cardboard over the base first to suppress weeds. On hard standing, add a 5-centimetre layer of gravel before the membrane.

Now fill the bed. For salads and herbs, a depth of 25–30 centimetres is ideal. Use a mix of roughly 60 per cent topsoil, 30 per cent peat-free multipurpose compost, and 10 per cent well-rotted manure or leafmould. If you do not have topsoil, a 50/50 mix of compost and soil-based potting compost works well. Fill in layers, firming gently as you go, and leave a 2-centimetre gap below the rim for watering. Water thoroughly and let the mix settle for a few days before planting.

Planting your pallet bed

Salads and herbs are the perfect match for a pallet bed. Sow lettuce, rocket, spinach, chard, radishes, and spring onions directly into the surface. For herbs, try basil, parsley, coriander, chives, thyme, oregano, and rosemary. Keep mint in a pot sunk into the compost, as it spreads aggressively.

• Lettuce: space 20–25 centimetres apart
• Rocket: space 10 centimetres apart
• Radishes: space 5 centimetres apart
• Basil and coriander: space 15–20 centimetres apart

Sow little and often every two or three weeks for a continuous supply. Mediterranean herbs such as thyme and rosemary prefer poorer soil, so do not overfeed them. Water gently in dry spells, aiming at the soil rather than the leaves. Harvest outer leaves first, and pinch out herb tips to encourage bushy growth.

Looking after the wood and the soil

Untreated pallet wood will last five to eight years, especially if you line it and keep it off damp ground. Never treat the inside with creosote or old engine oil. If you want to protect the outside, use a plant-safe linseed oil or simply leave it to weather to a soft silver-grey. Each spring, top up the compost with a few centimetres of fresh material and a handful of slow-release organic fertiliser. Rotate your crops to avoid pests and diseases building up. Check screws and braces once a year, and replace any board that has rotted. With a little care, your pallet bed will keep you in cut-and-come-again salads and fragrant herbs for years.